You will have to change coolant at sometime in the life of your car, whether required by the periodic maintenance schedule, hose replacement, or a major component repair.The mighty SR20DE is a strong, sophisticated, aluminum power plant, so use care and common sense.
This procedure requires less than two hours can be performed alone. It was done on a 1992 Sentra SE-R, and likely applies to all North American versions of the SR20DE-powered Sentra and 200SX produced since the 1991 model year. If in doubt, check with your dealer and the factory service manual. Optimum results are allegedly achieved by strictly following the factory service manual, but the method here has given me excellent results.
Tools and supplies: anti-freeze; distilled water; ratchet; sockets in 10mm and 14mm sizes; extensions in various sizes; small and large Phillips screwdrivers; large drain pan; funnel; Loctite PST sealant
View the photos before beginning!
- Allow the car to cool for few hours or overnight.
- Move the car outside. Otherwise, be prepared to catch a lot of water in some large drain pans.
- Move the heater control to full hot.
- Remove the right front splash shield using a ratchet, 10mm socket, and Phillips screwdriver.
- Place a large pan under the radiator drain plug and engine block drain plug.
- Remove the radiator cap, then remove the rear bleeder cap and radiator drain plug using a Phillips screwdriver. Coolant will drain.
- Remove the front bleeder plug using a ratchet, extension, and 10mm socket.
- Remove the engine block plug using a ratchet, extension, and 14mm socket. More coolant will drain.
- Move the drain pain out from beneath the car.
- Flush the radiator for about 30 seconds by running water from a garden hose through the radiator filler.
- Temporarily install the radiator drain plug and engine block drain plug until finger tight.
- Flush the engine block for 30 seconds by running water from garden hose through the radiator filler, allowing water to spill from the front bleeder.
- Temporarily install the front bleeder plug until finger tight.
- Flush the heater plumbing for about 30 seconds minute by running water from garden hose through the radiator filler, allowing water to spill from the rear bleeder.
- Once again remove the radiator drain plug, engine block drain plug, and front bleeder plug. Allow all fluid to drain.
- Remove the coolant reservoir, drain it into the pan, and install.
If coolant has been drained to allow replacement or repair of a cooling system component, stop now. Perform the required work, then continue below.
- Install the radiator drain plug.
- Apply Loctite PST sealant to the engine block plug and install it.
- With the front and rear bleeders still open and the heater control to full hot, fill the radiator and coolant reservoir with a mix of your favorite anti-freeze and distilled water (between 50/50 and 70/30 anti-freeze to distilled water is typical) until some spills from the front bleeder.
- Install the front bleeder plug.
- Fill the radiator with more coolant until some spills from the rear bleeder.
- Install the rear bleeder cap and radiator cap.
- Start the engine. Listen for strange noises, check for leaks, and keep an eye on the temperature gauge to avoid overheating.
- After the radiator fan begins to run, allow the engine to run a few more minutes, then shut down.
- Allow the engine to cool for an hour, then remove the rear bleeder cap and radiator cap.
- Fill the coolant reservoir if necessary, and fill the radiator until fluid spills from the rear bleeder.
- Install the rear bleeder cap and radiator cap. At this point, the cooling system should be sufficiently purged of air. With the engine running, you should feel hot air from the heater and hear no noises from the heater core. Note: the reservoir usually completes the last little bit of this job for you, so check the coolant level routinely after each drive over the next few days.
- Close the hood, lower the car, and go for a drive! Watch the temperature gauge, listen for strange noises, and check for leaks upon return.
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